Ford Bronco Sasquatch Package: What's Included and Is It Worth It?

What Is the Bronco Sasquatch Package?

Sasquatch is an off-road package, not a Bronco trim.

You add it to an eligible Bronco configuration to get a group of hardware that would otherwise take several separate modifications to recreate: larger tires, lower gearing, locking differentials, more clearance, and upgraded suspension.

I think of Sasquatch less as an appearance package and more as a factory-built starting point. The wide stance and 35-inch tires are the obvious part, but the gearing and lockers are what make the package meaningful once the trail gets harder.

Feature	What Sasquatch adds
Tires	LT315/70R17 rugged-terrain tires, commonly called 35s
Axles	Electronic-locking front and rear axles
Gearing	4.7 final drive ratio
Suspension	High-clearance setup with position-sensitive Bilstein shocks
Fender flares	High-clearance flares for the wider 35-inch setup
Wheels	17-inch Sasquatch wheel package; exact design varies by trim/package

What Does Sasquatch Include?

For 2026, Ford lists the core package around LT315/70R17 rugged-terrain tires, 17-inch wheels, a 4.7 final drive ratio with electronic-locking front and rear axles, high-clearance suspension, high-clearance fender flares, and position-sensitive Bilstein shocks.

Some details vary by trim because every Bronco is not starting from the same place. A Badlands already has more off-road hardware than a Base or Outer Banks before Sasquatch is added.

That matters because “Sasquatch” describes the package, not the entire truck. Two Sasquatch Broncos on different trims can still feel and behave differently.

How Is Sasquatch Different?

The easiest difference to see is tire size. Sasquatch moves the Bronco onto 35-inch-class tires with the extra flare coverage and clearance needed around them.

The bigger difference is underneath. The 4.7 final drive ratio helps the drivetrain work with the taller tire, while electronic lockers at both axles give you far more control when tires start unloading on uneven terrain.

Our Sasquatch vs. non-Sasquatch comparison breaks those hardware differences down individually.

Does Sasquatch Have 35-Inch Tires?

Yes. Ford lists LT315/70R17 tires with the package, which are the factory tires people mean when they call Sasquatch a “35-inch Bronco.”

I would not obsess over whether a specific tire measures a literal 35.0 inches mounted on the truck. Real tire diameter changes slightly by tire design, pressure, load, and manufacturer.

The more important point is that Ford designed the Sasquatch gearing, clearance, flares, and suspension around that larger tire size from the factory.

Does Sasquatch Have Two Lockers?

Yes. For 2026, Sasquatch uses electronic-locking front and rear axles with 4.7 gearing.

If you are comparing Sasquatch with ting 35s on a non-Sasquatch Bronco, this is one of the biggest reasons the two builds are not equivalent.

Tires are easy to change. Regearing axles and adding locker capability is a much bigger project.

For technical trail use, I value the lockers and gearing more than the 35-inch tires themselves.

How Much Clearance Does Sasquatch Add?

Ford lists up to about 11.5 inches of ground clearance on current Bronco configurations, with the exact number depending on body style and equipment.

The useful part is not just a taller number on a spec sheet. Larger tires and the high-clearance suspension give the Bronco more room before the underbody, differentials, and body start meeting terrain.

That does not make clearance infinite. A Sasquatch Bronco can still hang up on the wrong line, and its longer wheelbase in 4-door form still matters over breakovers.

I would treat the extra clearance as more margin, not permission to stop picking lines.

Does Sasquatch Ride Worse on the Highway?

“Worse” is too simple. It feels more like an off-road truck.

The 35-inch tires add rotating mass and more aggressive tread. You can feel more tire through the steering, and depending on the tire and road surface you may hear more tread noise than you would from a smaller, quieter street-oriented setup.

At the same time, Sasquatch is not some miserable crawler you have to tolerate between trails. Ford engineered the suspension, gearing, steering, and tire package together, so it still works as a daily-driven Bronco.

If I drove 80 highway miles every day and rarely left pavement, I would prefer the lighter feel of a non-Sasquatch setup. If my weekends involved trails, sand, snow, or rocky forest roads, I would happily accept the extra tire underneath me.

Does Sasquatch Get Worse MPG?

It can, but I would not quote one universal “Sasquatch penalty.” Bronco fuel economy changes with engine, transmission, body style, trim, tire, and package combination.

The physics are straightforward: a taller, heavier tire takes more energy to accelerate, and a wider off-road tire generally brings more rolling resistance and aerodynamic drag than a smaller road-oriented tire.

Current 2026 Ford inventory shows how configuration-specific the numbers can be. Some Sasquatch-equipped Broncos are listed around 17 mpg city/highway, while other configurations can carry higher EPA numbers. That is why I would compare the exact two builds you are shopping instead of assuming every Sasquatch loses the same number of mpg.

If you drive 8,000 miles a year, the fuel difference may barely influence the decision. At 20,000-plus miles, I would put it much higher on the list.

Is Sasquatch Worth It?

If you already know you want 35s, both lockers, lower gearing, and extra clearance, I think Sasquatch is one of the cleaner factory options on the Bronco.

You are buying a group of parts designed to work together from day one instead of immediately replacing half the truck to reach the same general goal.

If your Bronco will spend most of its life commuting, running errands, and occasionally driving a graded dirt road, I would skip it unless you simply love the look enough to accept the extra tire cost and weight.

Sasquatch solves a real off-road problem. Not every owner has that problem.

Is Sasquatch Worth It Without Rock Crawling?

It can be.

Rock crawling is where lockers and clearance are easiest to appreciate, but those are not the only reasons to want the package. The larger tires and factory off-road setup can also make sense for sand, snow, loose desert terrain, forest roads, and owners who simply want the 35-inch stance without building the truck afterward.

I would separate “I do not rock crawl” from “I never use off-road capability.” Those are different owners.

If your hardest terrain is a maintained campground road twice a year, Sasquatch is mostly a preference. If you spend weekends airing down in the desert or exploring rough mountain roads, you can use plenty of what it gives you without ever touching a rock garden.

Is Badlands Better With Sasquatch?

The answer gets less automatic on Badlands.

Badlands already starts with serious off-road hardware. Ford lists 33-inch tires, HOSS 2.0 with Bilstein dampers, Advanced 4x4, high-clearance flares, steel bash plates, rock rails, and off-road-focused drive modes among its equipment.

So Sasquatch is not turning a basic Badlands into an off-road Bronco. Badlands already is one.

If I were buying a Badlands and knew I wanted 35s anyway, I would strongly consider Sasquatch instead of paying for factory 33s and immediately replacing them.

If I wanted a slightly narrower, lighter-feeling setup for mixed street and trail use, non-Sasquatch Badlands is one of the Bronco configurations I like most. There is something appealing about keeping the serious hardware without automatically choosing the biggest tire Ford offers.

Sasquatch or Black Diamond?

They solve different problems.

For 2026 Big Bend, Ford requires the Black Diamond package before Sasquatch can be added. Black Diamond brings the practical trail-protection stuff: Advanced 4x4, auxiliary switches, powder-coated steel bumpers, full steel bash plates, rock rails, washout flooring, and 17-inch steel wheels.

Sasquatch then adds the 35-inch tire package, 4.7 gearing, front and rear lockers, more clearance, and its suspension hardware.

If I had to explain the difference in one sentence: Black Diamond helps protect and equip the Bronco; Sasquatch changes how it gets through terrain.

For a Big Bend buyer, I would not look at Black Diamond as an annoying prerequisite. Most of what it adds makes sense on a Bronco you are about to put Sasquatch under anyway.

Are Sasquatch Wheels Real Beadlocks?

They are beadlock-capable, which is not the same thing as arriving from the factory configured as functional beadlocks.

A functional beadlock mechanically clamps the outer tire bead to the wheel so the tire is less likely to unseat at very low air pressure. The factory wheel can be converted with the proper functional ring.

Ford sells a functional beadlock ring kit for compatible Bronco factory wheels and specifically labels the beadlock configuration for off-road use only.

This is one of those details that gets flattened in casual conversation. Saying “Sasquatch has beadlocks” makes it sound like every new Sasquatch leaves the dealership with the tire bead clamped. It does not.

For most owners, beadlock-capable is plenty. If you are airing down low enough to need a functional beadlock, you probably already know why you need it.

Can You Put 37s on Sasquatch?

Yes, but I would not call 37s a zero-consequence bolt-on just because the truck started as Sasquatch.

Sasquatch is a better starting point than many non-Sasquatch configurations because you already have lower gearing, more clearance, and driveline hardware intended for larger tires.

Going from a factory 35 to a 37 still changes clearance at full steering lock and suspension compression, effective gearing, tire weight, steering load, calibration, spare-tire weight, and possibly fender coverage depending on wheel offset.

Our 37-inch tire mod-snowball guide goes through those knock-on effects in detail.

If 37s are the real goal, I would plan the truck around 37s from the beginning instead of treating them as “two inches bigger, done.”

Does Sasquatch Cost More to Own?

Yes, mostly because the expensive wear item is staring you in the face: five 35-inch tires, including the full-size spare.

Larger off-road tires generally cost more to replace than smaller factory sizes. They are also heavier to rotate and handle, and shops sometimes charge more when wheel-and-tire assemblies get large and heavy.

Fuel can cost more over time depending on your exact configuration and driving. If you eventually replace the factory suspension, wheels, and tires with aftermarket parts, you also need to be honest about how much factory equipment you paid for and then removed.

This is why I think Sasquatch makes the most financial sense for the owner who plans to use most of the package as delivered.

If you know the factory wheels, tires, suspension, and gearing are all temporary, price the non-Sasquatch build before assuming Sasquatch is automatically the better foundation.

Does Sasquatch Make a Bronco Wider?

It gives the Bronco a wider footprint visually and at the tires.

The 315-width tires and high-clearance flares push the stance outward compared with narrower factory setups. That is part of why Sasquatch looks so different even before you notice the ride height.

The tradeoff shows up on tight trails, narrow garages, car washes, and anywhere tire coverage matters. Wider tires also have more opportunity to throw mud and gravel down the side of the truck if you push the wheels farther outward with aftermarket offset.

That last part matters: Sasquatch itself is one thing. Adding low-offset wheels or spacers on top of Sasquatch can create a much wider setup than Ford delivered.

We explain that relationship in our wheel offset and tire-poke guide.

Can You Build Sasquatch Later?

You can build a non-Sasquatch Bronco into something just as capable — or far more capable — but there is no one-button aftermarket “Sasquatch conversion.”

Tires and wheels are easy. Suspension is straightforward. Once you start adding axle lockers, 4.7 gearing, calibration, clearance, and all the little dependencies around them, the project gets more involved.

If your end goal is basically factory Sasquatch, I would rather start with Sasquatch.

If your end goal is a specialized crawler on 37s or larger, custom suspension, and different gearing, skipping some factory equipment can make sense because you may replace it anyway.

The better question is not whether aftermarket can beat Sasquatch. It can. The question is how many factory parts you are going to throw away to get there.

Should You Buy a Used Sasquatch?

Yes, but verify what you are looking at instead of trusting the badge.

A used Bronco is easy to make look like a Sasquatch. Wheels, tires, flares, and badges can all be changed. The expensive differences — gearing and axle hardware — are not nearly as obvious in a parking-lot photo.

I would ask for the original window sticker or build information first. Then I would check whether the truck still has the factory suspension, what tire size is on it now, whether the lockers engage correctly, and whether previous modifications changed the setup you thought you were buying.

On a heavily modified used Bronco, I care more about the current build than the package it left the factory with.

A clean stock Sasquatch with documentation is easy to understand. A “Sasquatch” on unknown suspension, different axles, 37s, spacers, and mystery tuning needs a much closer look.

Which Broncos Offer Sasquatch?

Availability changes by model year and configuration, so I would always check the current order guide rather than relying on an old trim chart.

For 2026, Ford lists Sasquatch as optional on several core trims, including Base, Big Bend, Outer Banks, and Badlands, with package dependencies on some configurations. Big Bend requires the Black Diamond package before Sasquatch can be added.

Ford also bundles Sasquatch into certain special configurations. The 2026 Heritage Edition includes it as standard equipment.

This is why I do not like hard-coding package prices into an evergreen guide. Ford can change dependencies, availability, and pricing faster than the basic Sasquatch concept changes.

How Can You Spot Sasquatch?

The 35-inch tire setup and wider high-clearance flares are the easiest clues from across a parking lot.

Wheel design can help too, but I would not use wheels, badges, or tires as proof on a used Bronco. Those are some of the first things owners change.

If Sasquatch matters to the purchase, verify it from the original window sticker or build information. A modified non-Sasquatch Bronco can look nearly identical from the outside.

Does Sasquatch Change the Engine?

No. Sasquatch is not an engine upgrade.

Engine and transmission choices still depend on the underlying trim and configuration. Sasquatch changes the off-road hardware around the axles, suspension, wheels, tires, gearing, and clearance.

I think this is worth calling out because used listings sometimes describe “Sasquatch” almost like it is a higher-performance engine model. It is not.

Which Sasquatch Would I Choose?

I would choose differently depending on what I planned to do with the truck.

If I wanted a daily driver that mostly looked aggressive, I would probably save the money and build a non-Sasquatch Bronco around the exact wheel and tire look I wanted.

If I wanted a Bronco I could buy, leave mechanically stock, and take onto progressively harder trails, Sasquatch makes a lot of sense because the expensive drivetrain pieces are already there.

If I wanted a Badlands, I would decide based on tire size. Want factory 35s? I would lean Sasquatch. Happy with 33s and a slightly narrower setup? I would keep the Badlands non-Sasquatch and enjoy how much capability it already has.

If I knew from day one that the truck was getting 37s, custom suspension, different wheels, and possibly different gearing, I would price both paths carefully. Paying for Sasquatch hardware just to remove it is not automatically smart.

And if I never planned to leave pavement? I would only buy Sasquatch if I loved the appearance enough to knowingly pay for capability I probably would not use.

Should You Buy Sasquatch?

I would buy it if the parts you care about are the expensive ones to add later: lockers, gearing, clearance, and a factory 35-inch setup.

I would not buy it because the flares look tougher or because someone told you every “real” Bronco needs Sasquatch. A non-Sasquatch Bronco is still a capable 4x4, and a Badlands without Sasquatch is especially far from helpless.

Sasquatch makes the most sense when it matches the build you were going to create anyway.

If your plan is “35s, factory lockers, and leave the driveline alone,” it is hard to argue against. If your plan is “replace the wheels, tires, suspension, and gearing immediately,” do the math before checking the box.